Exploring Gothenburg’s Southern Archipelago: A Car-Free Island Paradise

There is something truly magical about leaving the bustling city of Gothenburg behind and stepping onto a ferry at Saltholmen. Within just twenty minutes, the sound of traffic is replaced by the cry of seagulls and the gentle lapping of the North Sea against granite rocks. You won’t find any bridges connecting these gems to the mainland, and that’s exactly why they’ve kept their soul. Apart from the occasional taxi or emergency vehicle, the southern archipelago is completely car-free.

Having lived in and around Gothenburg for thirty years, I’ve seen these islands in every season, and they remain my absolute favorite escape whenever I need to recharge.

Getting to the islands – From the city or Saltholmen

One of the best things about the Gothenburg southern archipelago is how accessible it is. You don’t need a private boat or an expensive tour.

The most frequent way to reach the islands is from Saltholmen in western Gothenburg. I usually recommend taking tram 11 from the city center directly to the terminal. However, there is a newer and even more convenient option if you are staying in the heart of the city: You can now take a ferry directly from Stenpiren, the modern travel hub in the city center.

And the best part?

• These ferries are part of the Västtrafik public transport system.
• Your standard tram ticket or day pass covers the boat ride at no extra cost.
• The boats from Stenpiren (look for line 281, 282, or 283) take a bit longer but offer a scenic cruise right out of the harbor.

Keep in mind that while Stenpiren is very convenient, the departures there are less frequent than from Saltholmen, so it pays to check the schedule in advance.

Styrsö and Donsö: A perfect island-hopping walk

If you are looking for a classic archipelago experience, I suggest starting with Styrsö. It is one of the larger islands and offers a wonderful mix of traditional wooden villas and rugged nature.

Here is a tip I often give to friends visiting for the first time:

• Take the ferry to Styrsö Bratten.
• Enjoy a leisurely walk along the water’s edge heading south.
• Cross the bridge that connects Styrsö to the neighboring island of Donsö.
• Explore the charming fishing harbor in Donsö before taking the ferry back to the mainland from there.

Donsö feels a bit more industrial in a “maritime” way – it’s actually home to several major Swedish shipping companies. The contrast between the quaint red fishing huts and the modern shipping offices is fascinating.

Brännö: Where culture meets coastal charm

Brännö is perhaps the most famous island, immortalized in Swedish folk songs. It has a slightly more “bohemian” vibe than the other islands. If you take the ferry to Brännö Rödsten, you can walk across the entire island to Brännö Husvik on the southwestern side.

Halfway through your walk, you’ll find Brännö Värdshus. Over the years, I’ve spent many sunny afternoons in their garden. It’s a fantastic spot for a traditional Swedish meal or just a coffee and a “bulle.”

If you are looking for the perfect photo spot, keep an eye out for the signposted path leading to the elevated lookout point right in the heart of the island. It’s easy to find and offers breathtaking panoramic views over the granite rocks and the surrounding sea.

If you happen to visit Brännö on a summer Thursday, you might even witness the traditional dancing on the pier at Brännö Brygga.

Vrångö: The ultimate escape into nature

If you want to feel like you’ve reached the edge of the world, stay on the ferry until the final stop: Vrångö. This is the southernmost inhabited island and, in my opinion, the one with the best swimming spots.

The island is divided into two nature reserves with excellent hiking trails. The paths are well-marked and lead you through sandy dunes and over smooth granite rocks. It’s the perfect place to find a private cove, take a dip in the cold sea, and just breathe.

Fresh seafood and island flavors

You can’t visit the archipelago without tasting the local catch. While there are lovely restaurants like the one on Brännö or the café on Styrsö, I often prefer a more “authentic” lunch.

In the harbor of Donsö, you can sometimes buy fresh prawns directly from a fishing vessel. Combine that with some fresh bread and beverages from one of the island’s small grocery stores, and you have the perfect picnic.

Where should you eat it? Anywhere! The islands are full of benches and flat rocks with stunning views of the Kattegat.

Planning your stay

Accommodation on the islands is limited and fills up fast, especially during the midsummer season. Here are my top picks:

• Brännö Varv B&B – A very cool, laid-back place on Brännö with a great “yard” atmosphere.
• Kajkanten Vrångö – Modern, self-catering boathouses right in the harbor of Vrångö.

If the island hotels are full – which happens often – I recommend staying at the Quality Hotel Waterfront in Gothenburg. It’s located right by the Älvsborg Bridge. From there, it’s a quick 15-minute tram ride to the ferry terminal at Saltholmen.

The magic of winter in the archipelago

While most visitors come in the summer, the islands take on a hauntingly beautiful character in the winter. I’ve often taken the boat out in December or January just to experience the peculiar light. At midday, the sun hangs so low it feels like a permanent sunset, painting the granite in shades of orange, pink, and deep red.

However, a winter trip requires a bit of planning:

• Dress for the elements: The wind out here can be piercing. You will need high-quality, weatherproof clothing.
• Bring your own provisions: Most restaurants and shops have very limited hours or are closed entirely. I always recommend packing a thermos and a hearty lunch.
• Last-minute snacks: If you forget your supplies, check the small stand at the Saltholmen dock before boarding – it’s usually your last chance to buy basic snacks.

If you appreciate silence and a touch of melancholy beauty, a winter walk here is an experience you won’t find anywhere else.

Final thoughts

The southern archipelago isn’t just a place; it’s a feeling. It’s the sound of the wind, the taste of salt on your lips, and the total absence of car engines. Whether you’re hiking the trails of Vrångö or crossing the bridge between Styrsö and Donsö, you’ll understand why we locals cherish these islands so much. Pack a windbreaker, check the ferry schedule, and get ready for a day you won’t forget.

Donsö

I caught the three courageous swimmers at Brännö Ramsdal very late in the season – in fact, in the second week of September.

Brännö Värdshus

Asperö

Asperö

Vrångö

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