Gothenburg’s Northern Archipelago: Guide to Hönö & Öckerö

While many travelers head straight for the car-free southern islands, Gothenburg’s northern archipelago offers a rugged, accessible, and equally breathtaking experience. Over the nearly three decades I’ve spent exploring the Swedish west coast, I have many times found myself returning to these northern gems – often referred to as the Öckerö islands – where the salt spray meets a unique blend of traditional fishing culture and modern coastal living. Best of all? You can bring your car along for the ride, making it the perfect destination for a flexible day trip or a multi-day coastal escape.

Getting there: The iconic yellow road ferries

The journey to the northern archipelago is an experience in itself. To reach the islands, you’ll head to Lilla Varholmen on the western tip of Torslanda. This is where you’ll find the famous yellow road ferries.

And the best part? They are completely free.

The ferries operate on two main routes: the Hönöleden (taking you to Hönö) and the Björköleden (taking you to Björkö). Having made this crossing countless times since the 90s, I still get a thrill when the ramp goes down and the sea air hits my face. If you aren’t driving, you can easily catch a bus from the Nils Ericson Terminal next to Gothenburg’s Central Station, which will take you directly to the ferry terminal or even onto the islands.

Hönö Klåva: The vibrant heart of the islands

If you’re looking for a bit of buzz, Hönö Klåva is the place to be. It serves as the commercial and social hub of the archipelago. In the old harbor area, you’ll find a delightful mix of fashion boutiques, gift shops, and excellent local eateries.

Whether you are craving a traditional shrimp sandwich or a modern gourmet meal, the restaurants here never disappoint. Over the years, I’ve watched Klåva transform from a quiet fishing port into a sophisticated destination that still manages to keep its authentic charm.

Where to stay in the archipelago

Because there are no large hotels directly on the islands, I often recommend staying nearby or in the city. The Arken Hotel & Art Garden Spa is a fantastic choice, located just 20 minutes from the ferry terminal. It’s the perfect base to combine island hopping with some serious relaxation.

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Insider tips from 30 years of Sweden travel. This guide contains affiliate links (marked with ➔) to help support my work at no extra cost to you.

Breathtaking views and hidden nature

One of my favorite “secret” tips involves a short walk that many tourists miss.

On the bridge to Fotö

The bridge to Fotö: If the weather is clear, park your car at the northern entrance of the bridge connecting Hönö and Fotö. Walk to the middle of the bridge – the view is truly breathtaking. From here, you can see across the entire archipelago and even spot the massive cranes of the Port of Gothenburg in the distance.

If you prefer your nature a bit more wild, head to Ersdalen on the western side of Hönö. This nature reserve is a paradise of rock formations and coastal flora.

Nature reserve Ersdalen on Hönö

My personal recommendation? Visit Ersdalen during a storm. There is nothing quite like watching the North Sea waves crash against the ancient cliffs – it’s a powerful reminder of the raw beauty of the Swedish west coast.

Island hopping to the far north: Rörö

For those who want to venture even further, I highly recommend a trip to Rörö. Located at the northernmost point of the chain, Rörö is a haven for nature lovers.

To get there, drive through Hönö, Öckerö, and Hälsö until you reach the Burö ferry port. I suggest leaving your car in the large parking lot at Burö. Rörö is small, parking is scarce, and the island is best explored on foot.

On my way back from Rörö

The 25-minute ferry ride to Rörö is spectacular, often stopping at the tiny island of Hyppeln. Half of Rörö is a protected nature reserve, and after a long hike, there is nothing better than sitting in the cozy café in the guest harbor, watching the yachts and fishing boats drift by.

Practical details for your visit

Planning your trip is easy, but there are a few things to keep in mind to make your visit seamless:

Cycling: The islands are incredibly bike-friendly. You can even cycle all the way from central Gothenburg along road 155 on a dedicated path.
Island connections: While Hönö, Öckerö, Fotö, and Hälsö are connected by bridges, smaller ferries (some for pedestrians only) serve islands like Källö-Knippla, Hyppeln, and Rörö.
Parking: In Hönö Klåva, you can usually park for three hours with a parking disc (P-skiva).
Motorhomes: If you are traveling by RV, several harbors like Fotö, Björkö, and Hönö Klåva offer dedicated sites, though facilities vary.

Explore Gothenburg & the islands

Want to stay in the heart of the action? Gothenburg has some of the best hotels in Scandinavia. Booking your stay in the city gives you the best of both worlds – urban culture and easy access to the islands.

Find the best hotels in Gothenburg

Final thoughts

Gothenburg’s northern archipelago offers a sense of freedom that is hard to find elsewhere. Whether you are bridge-walking to Fotö, shopping in Klåva, or hiking the silent trails of Rörö, these islands provide a perfect snapshot of life in Bohuslän.

So, next time you are in Gothenburg, don’t just look at the horizon – hop on a yellow ferry and go explore it!