Stockholm is one of the few capitals in the world where you can step out of a royal palace and immediately board a boat heading into a wilderness of 30,000 islands. I’ve been exploring this unique maritime world for nearly three decades, and the magic of the “Skärgården” never fades. Whether you have just a few hours or a whole month, these islands offer an escape that feels a world away from the city bustle, yet they are right on your doorstep.
Between Norrtälje in the north and Nynäshamn in the south, the archipelago stretches out like a giant fan into the Baltic Sea. While only a small fraction of these islands are inhabited year-round, many more come to life during the short, vibrant Swedish summer. For me, there is nothing quite like the sight of the white archipelago boats – the “skärgårdsbåtar” – waiting at Strömkajen or Nybrokajen to whisk you away.
A paradise for every type of traveler
What makes the Stockholm archipelago so special? It is the sheer variety. You can find everything from bustling harbor towns with high-end restaurants to remote, windswept rocks where you won’t see another soul all day.
Over the years, I’ve found that most visitors fall in love with the mix of activities available. You can:
- Hike and cycle: Many islands like Utö or Grinda offer fantastic trails.
- Kayaking: Paddling through the calm waters of the inner archipelago is a bucket-list experience.
- History and culture: Visit ancient fortresses or the summer homes of famous Swedish authors.
- Relaxation: Simply find a warm, flat rock, enjoy a “fika,” and stare out at the horizon.
Must-visit highlights in the archipelago
If you are planning your first trip, the choice of 30,000 islands can be overwhelming. Where should you start?
Sandhamn (Island of Sandön)
This is the legendary hub for sailors. The entire island consists of sand, hence the name. It’s also famous as the setting for the TV crime series “The Sandhamn Murders” (based on Viveca Sten’s novels). It’s chic, lively, and has some of the best sandy beaches in the region.
Fjäderholmarna
This is the “near” archipelago, just 25 minutes from downtown Stockholm. Until 1985, it was a restricted military zone, but today it’s a flourishing destination with craft studios, a fish smokehouse, and even a place where Swedish whisky is matured. It is the perfect choice if you only have half a day to spare.
Vaxholm
Often called the “capital of the archipelago,” Vaxholm is famous for its 16th-century fortress and beautiful wooden villas. It is easily accessible by bus or boat and offers a wide range of hotels and B&Bs if you want to stay overnight: Hotels, B&Bs and holiday apartments in Vaxholm.
Utö
Located in the southern archipelago, Utö is a favorite for active travelers. I highly recommend renting a bike here to explore the island’s mining history and its beautiful swimming spots. Don’t forget to stop at the local fish kiosk for some smoked treats!
Värmdö
This municipality has “Stockholm’s proudest archipelago”, a unique natural environment with more than 10,000 islands. Around 38,000 people live here. In summer, Värmdö grows and consists of over 100,000 inhabitants. Värmdö is home to popular tourist destinations such as Gustavsberg, Sandhamn (see above), Möja, Grinda, Bullerö and Svartsö. In Värmdö you will also find the amazing Artipelag Art Gallery.
Experience the archipelago from the water
If you have limited time but want to see the best of the islands, a guided cruise is the perfect way to start your journey. You’ll get expert insights into the history and nature of this unique landscape.
Guided cruise from the city center: Check availability for your dates
Insider tips from 30 years of Sweden travel. This guide contains affiliate links (marked with ➔) to help support my work at no extra cost to you.
Sailing in the footsteps of legends
The archipelago has always inspired artists. August Strindberg, Sweden’s most famous playwright, spent much of his time on Kymmendö and Dalarö. In fact, his famous novel “The People of Hemsö” was inspired by his life on Kymmendö. Dalarö itself is known as the “gateway to the southern archipelago” and is even connected to the mainland by a bridge, making it a very convenient starting point.
Further out, you’ll find Huvudskär. With over 200 tiny islands, it’s a nature reserve and a true “summer pearl” for those who want to experience the raw beauty of the outer archipelago.
Practical tips: How to get around
Navigating the islands is easier than you might think. The two main shipping companies are Waxholmsbolaget (the classic public transport of the sea) and Cinderella Båtarna (faster, more tourist-oriented boats operated by Strömma).
If you want to do some serious island hopping, the Båtluffarkort is your best friend. These multi-day passes (usually for 5 or 30 days) allow you to hop on and off the boats of Waxholmsbolaget and Cinderella as much as you like. It’s the most cost-effective way to see as many islands as possible.
And the best part? During the summer months (June to August), there is a special Nord/Sydlinjen (North/South line). This boat connection allows you to travel all the way from Simpnäs in the north to Nynäshamn in the south without having to head back into the city center.
A tip from my 30 years of travel
One of my favorite things to do is to catch one of the vintage steamboats, like the S/S Norrskär (built in 1910) or the S/S Storskär. There is something incredibly nostalgic about the smell of the steam engine and the sound of the whistle as you pull away from the dock.
But a word of warning: on popular routes or during beautiful summer days, these boats can get very crowded. You’ll see locals hauling boxes, groceries, and bags to their summer houses. My advice? Embrace it. Squeeze in, find a spot on the deck, and maybe strike up a conversation. Some of my best Sweden tips have come from chatting with locals on these ferry rides!
Find your perfect archipelago stay
From cozy hostels on islands like Svartsö to luxury hotels in Vaxholm, there is an accommodation for every budget. I always recommend booking early for the June – August peak season!
Stay in the archipelago: Check availability for your dates
Ready for your island adventure?
The Stockholm archipelago is about the slow pace of the water, the cry of the seagulls, and that incomparable Nordic light. Whether you are a solo hiker, a family with kids, or a couple looking for a romantic getaway, these 30,000 islands are waiting for you.
Archipelago sightseeing cruise with guide
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Hotels in the Stockholm archipelago
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A boat of Waxholmsbolaget
A Cinderella boat
Rävstavik on the island of Utö has magnificent cliffs for swimming and sunbathing.
Sightseeing tours, activities and entrance tickets
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Hotels in Stockholm
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Featured image on the top of this page and photo #5: Strömma Turism & Sjöfart AB. Photo #3: Gunnel Ilonen/SMM. Photo #4: Magnus Deutgen. Last photo: Cicki Borg.
