Gothenburg

Gothenburg is a working-class city and a major port where hard work meets an international trade culture. It is a bustling place, often hosting Sweden’s largest trade fairs, congresses, sporting events, and concerts rather than Stockholm. For example, Bruce Springsteen’s performances at the Ullevi stadium are legendary.

When I moved from Cologne to Gothenburg 30 years ago, I felt at home within just a few weeks. I love this city because most people here are honest, humorous, and direct. Furthermore, many believe the Gothenburg dialect to be the best in Sweden – if not the world.

Over the decades, I have seen this city transform from a gritty industrial hub into a vibrant, modern metropolis that still keeps its feet on the ground. But before we dive into the highlights, let’s talk about how to get here.

Easy to reach by plane and ferry

Gothenburg is easily accessible from all over the world, including low-cost flights to Landvetter airport. However, if you want my personal recommendation for the most scenic arrival?

Take the night ferry from Kiel, Germany.

As you sail through the Gothenburg archipelago in the morning, you can enjoy beautiful views of the small islands right from the breakfast table. It is an experience I’ve enjoyed countless times over the last 30 years, and it never gets old. The ferry docks directly behind the impressive Älvsborg Bridge, with trams waiting near the pier to take you into the city center. There is also a ferry service from Fredrikshavn in Denmark.

Both ferry services are operated by Stena Line.

A fascinating world of islands

The center of Gothenburg is only a stone’s throw from a fascinating world of islands.

The car-free southern archipelago can be reached in just one hour from the city center by taking a tram followed by a boat. On the islands, you will find charming seaside villages, fantastic hiking and cycling opportunities, secluded beaches, and traditional restaurants – such as the homely inn on the island of Brännö.

The northern archipelago, on the other hand, can be reached by car and free car ferries from Lilla Varholmen.

Both offer a completely different vibe, and I highly suggest visiting both if you have the time.

Hiking and nature: The Lake District

Gothenburg’s hinterland is rich in lakes and is therefore often called the Lake District. Particularly beautiful lakes include Lygnern, Mjörn, Sävelången, Anten, and Aspen. There are numerous hiking trails here that are enjoyable even in spring or autumn.

Here are some of my favorite routes:

• The Gotaleden: A continuous trail between Gothenburg and Alingsås.
• The Bohusleden: Heading north for a more rugged experience.
• The Kattegattleden: A 390 km path primarily known for cycling, but great for coastal walks too.
• Bunketorp: Located in Lindome, this is my personal favorite nature reserve and easily accessible by public transport.

Urban development and future projects

Gothenburg sometimes struggles with a bit of a complex – being number two in Sweden after Stockholm. This often leads to an ambition to have everything the capital has, but ideally better, higher, and more expensive.

This drive has led to mixed results. The Karlatornet, Scandinavia’s tallest skyscraper at 246 meters, has become an architectural success and a new landmark on the skyline. In contrast, the Västlänken infrastructure project is a major struggle. The rail tunnel is extremely expensive due to the difficult clay soil and offers few advantages for long-distance trains.

And the downside?

This massive expenditure means that other vital projects, such as a train connection to Landvetter airport or improved links to Borås and Jönköping, have been sidelined for the foreseeable future. It’s a challenge the region will have to face for years to come.

Final thoughts

Despite these growing pains, Gothenburg remains my home and my heart. Whether you are coming for the legendary concerts at Ullevi, the cozy streets of Haga, or the fresh salty air of the archipelago, you will find a city that is as honest as its people.

More information for your visit to Gothenburg

Overviews

• 12 favorite spots in Gothenburg
• A foodie’s guide to Gothenburg
• Active Gothenburg: from skiing to saunas
• Stay with a view: unique hotels in Gothenburg

Sightseeing and activities

• Haga: one of the oldest parts of the city
• Sightseeing on land and water: the Ocean Bus
• The classic Paddan boat tour: city and harbor cruise
• Best day trips from Gothenburg
• Seven reasons to visit the Christmas City Gothenburg

The archipelago

• Southern archipelago: car-free islands
• Northern archipelago: nature and bridges

Hotels and accommodation

• Hotels in Gothenburg: comparison and booking
• Recommended hostels
• Holiday homes in West Sweden and Halland

  Sightseeing tours, activities and entrance tickets

Book now: The best Gothenburg tours, activities and tickets

  Hotels in Gothenburg

Book now:  Hotels, hostels, B&Bs in Gothenburg

Here are some hotels I especially recommend:

• 4-5 stars:  Gothia Towers, including Upper House – next to the amusement park Liseberg
• 4 star:  Clarion Hotel Post – opposite the central station
• 3 star:  Radisson Blu Riverside Hotel – excellent bar and magnificent view from the top
• 3 star:  Comfort Hotel City – right in the centre of Gothenburg near the Stenpiren travel hub
• Hostel:  Slottsskogen Hostel – one of the best and friendliest hostels in town

In the southern archipelago