If you are looking for a side of Stockholm that perfectly blends modern architecture, sustainable living, and a relaxed maritime atmosphere, look no further than Hammarby Sjöstad. Often referred to simply as “Sjöstan” by locals, this district has transformed from a gritty industrial zone into a world-class model for urban planning. Over my thirty years of exploring the Swedish capital, I have seen many neighborhoods evolve, but none quite as dramatically or as successfully as this one.
Located just 4 km south-east of the city center, Hammarby Sjöstad is a breath of fresh air. It is a place where glass-fronted apartments meet the shimmering waters of Hammarby Sjö, and where sustainability isn’t just a buzzword – it is a way of life.
From industrial wasteland to eco-friendly masterpiece
When I first visited this area in the early nineties, it was a different world. It was a run-down industrial district characterized by old warehouses and shipping docks. Then, a bold decision was made: to create a state of the art residential area where environmental protection was the guiding principle.
The result is what you see today – a district that manages its own energy, water, and waste in a closed-loop system. As you walk along the boardwalks, you’ll notice the meticulous design that allows nature to thrive alongside high-density living. It is no wonder that architects and urban planners from every corner of the globe flock here for inspiration.
The unexpected demographic shift
Here is an interesting bit of trivia I’ve learned over the years: Hammarby Sjöstad wasn’t actually built for families. Originally, the planners envisioned it as a haven for people over 55 who wanted a quiet life near the water without the noise of the city center. They even limited parking spaces, assuming car pools would be enough for the “silver generation.”
But then, something happened.
Young families fell in love with the area. The proximity to the water, the parks, and the safe, pedestrian-friendly streets proved irresistible. The planners had to pivot quickly, building schools and kindergartens where they had once planned senior housing. Today, the district hums with the energy of young parents and children, giving it a vibrant, community-focused character that feels incredibly welcoming to visitors.
Stockholm’s shortest ferry ride
One of my favorite ways to arrive in Hammarby Sjöstad is via the water. Between Södermalm (at Barnängsbryggan) and the Luma pier in Sjöstan runs a small passenger ferry.
And the best part? It’s completely free!
The crossing takes only about three minutes, but it offers a fantastic view of the district’s architecture from the water. It is a local secret that saves you a long walk or a tram ride, and it connects the trendy vibes of Södermalm with the modern elegance of the waterfront.
Hammarbybacken: a mountain in the city
Believe it or not, Hammarby Sjöstad has its own alpine ski slope! Hammarbybacken is an artificial hill that serves as a landmark for the whole area. In the winter, it’s a fully functioning ski resort with four runs and two lifts. It has even hosted FIS Ski World Cup events.
But it’s not just for winter sports. During the summer, the lift stays open for mountain bikers looking for a downhill rush, and the “SkiStar Sports & Adventures” park offers climbing, hiking, and even a mountain coaster. From the top, you get one of the most spectacular panoramic views of Stockholm – trust me, it’s worth the climb.
Where to stay and how to get around
For a modern, stylish, and budget-friendly stay, I highly recommend checking out the hotels in this area. You get more space for your money than in the Gamla Stan.
During one of my recent stays in the area, I opted for Motel L Hammarby Sjöstad. It is a fantastic choice if you want modern design without the hefty price tag of a central hotel. I was particularly grateful for the excellent air conditioning when the Stockholm temperatures hit 30 degrees Celsius.
The location is incredibly convenient:
- The Tvärbanan tram stop (Mårtensdal) is right in front of the hotel.
- One stop west takes you to Gullmarsplan, where you can catch the green metro line directly to the city center.
- The tram also takes you straight to the Avicii Arena (formerly the Ericsson Globe) in just a few minutes.
- An excellent alternative is the Best Western Plus Park City Hammarby Sjöstad, which offers great views and proximity to the slopes.
Insider tips from 30 years of Sweden travel. This guide contains affiliate links (marked with ➔) to help support my work at no extra cost to you.
Practical tips for your visit
If you want to experience Hammarby Sjöstad like a local, I suggest following these tips:
- Grab a coffee: Head to the Luma area. There are several waterfront cafés where you can sit and watch the boats go by – it’s the perfect spot for people-watching.
- Walk the boardwalk: You can walk almost the entire perimeter of the district along the water. It’s a flat, easy stroll that takes about 45 minutes.
- Visit the “Sickla Sluss”: Check out the canal locks where the lake meets the sea – it’s a fascinating piece of engineering.
Final thoughts
Hammarby Sjöstad is more than just a residential district; it’s a testament to what modern Stockholm stands for – innovation, sustainability, and a high quality of life. Whether you are an architecture buff, a skiing enthusiast, or just a traveler looking for a unique place to stay, this “Waterfront City” will not disappoint.
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Hammarby Sjöstad’s own alpine ski slope: Hammarbybacken
From the World Cup competition, 23 February 2016
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Last photo: SkiStar










